Esquire has named New Orleans’ Shaya the best new restaurant in America.
The establishment, which is owned by former Demonica chef Alon Shaya and renowned chef/restarauter John Besh, has been putting a modern spin on classic Israeli fare since opening its doors in February of this year.
In his review, Esquire’s Tom Junod noted that the restaurant’s hummu and tabbouleh were “the best I’ve ever tasted.” He elaborated on the subject, adding:
“There’s always a lovely astringency to Israeli food, a bracing quality that seems based on a knowledge of life itself, the sour never far from the sweet and bitter herbs essential to the grandest feast. It’s not the food of the conqueror but rather of the conquered and the unconquerable, which is what makes it hard to decide if the “best” Israeli food is food that breaks with tradition or exemplifies it. Luckily, the food at Shaya does both—its tabbouleh harking back not only to some ancient recipe but also to some local farm, and its hummus … well, its hummus wasn’t just, like, creamy. It was just like cream.”
Shaya is located a 4213 Magazine Street.