Two guys jogged past me as I approached Tucker’s Tavern. They were getting a midday workout and I was headed to the home of the deep-fried burger. I felt guilty even before my first bite.

I’d heard about Tucker’s for years, but I had never tasted its deep-fried burger. After the original CBD location flooded, I figured that the deep-fried burger was another culinary treasure lost to Katrina. Would anyone have bet their FEMA checks that Tucker’s would return? It’s back, though, in the Wareh...