So glad these are still on the menu, even after you left! How did you come up with the recipe?

“About 4-5 years ago, I wanted to do a Thai mussel special, but I didn’t want to use coconut milk. I’d made mussels before with wine, butter, garlic, tomato and basil, so I started by adding Thai aromatics to that—fish sauce and lime juice. It became a joke in the kitchen; my sous chef thought it was ridiculous. “Fish sauce and butter don’t mix!” And I’d still hear that whenever an order f...