New Orleans culinary rites of spring have arrived. Luring spicy scents of cooked crawfish fill the air. Crawfish have,crawled onto just about every menu in the city. This month’s column focuses on a few of the restaurants that have successfully incorporated these versatile freshwater crustaceans_ into non-traditional dishes. Whether they are referred to as crawdads, crayfish or ecrevisses, this shellfish retains the unique ability to take on many different flavors through different cooking styles. New Orleans benefits because the majority of the United States crawfish harvest comes from the Mississippi Basin. Crawfish range from 3 to 6 inches long and weigh anywhere from 2 to 8 ounces.

JAPON (3125 Esplanade Avenue; 949-6800) successfully incorporates crawfish into its high standards of fusion cuisine and sushi preparation. The owners of Little Tokyo opened their fourth and finest high-end restaurant in the Faubourg Marigny in September. Already this establishment has attracted a growing lunch and dinner crowd. Any first time diner will want to order all of Chef Dexter Bigcting’s 50 available menu items. Select from an abundant menu of sushi, grilled items and daily specials.

JAPON serves the most tender, surprisingly crunchy and flavorful Soft-Shell Crawfish ($5.95) lightly fried with a dusting of cornstarch. No soy or wasabi needed here. One should also taste the Soft~Shell Crawfish Roll ($7.75). This impeccable roll incorporates succulent Crawfish tails cooked in subtle spicy flavors and crisp vegetables including fresh asparagus. The Louisiana Roll ($4.50) centers around flavorful crawfish tails and pickled okra. Even an untrained palette can discern the smooth blend of shellfish, marinated vegetables and Japanese flavors. A strong wasabi buzz will not prevent anyone from finding a winning dish on this menu. Settle into one of the quiet brightly-lit dining rooms for a culinary experience that meets the highest Japanese dining standards. JAPON serves lunch Monday-Friday only from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner hours remain Monday-Thursday 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. On weekends dinner is served Friday- Saturday 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m. and Sunday 5:30 p.m.-9 p.m.

Riccobono’s (7801 Panola Street; 314-1810)’ has revitalized breakfast and lunch Uptown by reopening the location formerly occupied by the second Bluebird Cafe. The Riccobono family, who also owns the Peppermill Restaurant in Metairie, builds upon 25 years of breakfast cooking experience to remind diners that breakfast can be the most satisfying meal of the day. This new establishment will help fire up your day with the finest crawfish breakfast dish in the city. A substantial Crayfish Saute omelet (S6.95) is best served with hash browns and homemade biscuits! The kitchen staff fills a fluffy omelette with fresh sauteed mushrooms, green onions and a generous portion of steaming crawfish tails. portion of steaming crawfish tails. Riccobono’s also offers a number of other delicious breakfast sandwiches, Belgian waffles, pancakes, muffins and health conscious items to start the day. Breakfast is served anytime, but the lunch side of the menu includes diverse offerings of soup, sandwiches and salads. Drop by Riccobon’’s seven days a week from 7 a.m.- 3 p.m.

If you have yet to discover Royal China (600 Veterans Boulevard, Metairie; 831-9633) you are missing out on an immense Dim Sum and Chinese menu Shirley and Tang Lee have been perfecting for more than twenty years. Some locals may get upset that this column has exposed their secret dining spot tucked away on Veterans Boulevard. This restaurant focuses on outstanding food and warm service in a small room of simple decor. Miss Shirley’s personalized service and sense of humor includes a sharp memory for anyone who has ever dined in her restaurant. Don’t be intimidated to ask for anything not listed on the menu

While looking over their extensive menu, one should first try their two best crawfish dishes. The Crawfish and Black Bean entree ($13.50) exceeds the goals of full flavor and good value. Piles of crawfish tails are stir fried with tender black beans, green onions, garlic and onions in a light Ginger sauce. Even when shared by three hungry diners, there remained enough for someone’s lunch the next day. Chef Tang’s Barbecued Crawfish ($14.50) represents just one of their Chinese dishes that have tapped into New Orleans fresh ingredients and staple flavors. Large quantities of tempura fried crawfish tails melt away in one’s mouth with flavors of soy, garlic, and ginger finished with a fresh tomato sauce served on a simple bed of lettuce. If either of these two preparations of crawfish cannot entice you, let Miss Shirley know your recipe for a favorite crawfish dish and she try to accommodate you.

Miss Shirley wants all of her diners to eat heartily, enjoy themselves and join their family of weekly guests. Royal China is open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m. Tuesday – Friday and for dinner Tuesday – Friday 5 p.m. to 8:30 p.m and Saturday 5 p.m. – 9:30 p.m.

Rocky’s Old New Orleans Bar & Pizza Joint (3222 Magazine Street; 891-5152) incorporates crawfish into eight dishes on it’s menu. Join an eclectic mix of locals in the front dining room or back courtyard decorated with intricate cypress facades, folk art, antique New Orleans advertisements and select Mardi Gras Indians photographs. Rocky’s salutes the uniqueness of New Orleans by naming their dishes after distinctive streets, local landmarks, and long gone establishments. Start the meal off right with one of their generous salads. The menu boasts “They’re Big & They’re Bad!”. The most notable and creative Jazzfest Salad ($7.25) places sauteed spiced crawfish tails on a entree size bed of mixed greens, hearts of palm, roma tomatoes, and toasted spiced pecans. The Irish Channel Pizza ($9.45 small, $15.10 large) places lightly sauteed onions, shrimp, crawfISh tails, feta and mozzarella cheese, green- onions on a crisp thin crust. Most pizzas can be served with either a red pepper spicy marinara sauce or Rocky’s signature power garlic, butter and Italian herb sauce.

All of Rocky’s Pizza, Pasta and Focaccia Sandwiches can be made with Sugar Buster whole-wheat ingredients. Rocky’s is open Sunday-Thursday 11:30 a.m.-ll p.m. and Friday-Saturday 11:30 a.m. -Midnight.

Master Boiler’s Max P’s Ultimate Crawfish Boil

Former New Orleans resident and master boiler Max Petersen shares his master ingredient list for springtime crawfish boils. Max recommends starting your crawfish boil at K-Jean (236 North Carrollton Avenue, 488-7503). K-Jean sells live crawfish ($1.19-$1.35 per pound) and homemade spice sacks ($7.50) in addition to fresh daily seafood and a full service kitchen. K-Jean is open from 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. daily.

First, one must add the following ingredients to the boil: two dozen high quality hot dogs, seared hot and sweet Italian sausage, one bag of white onions, six cloves of trimmed garlic, six ears fresh shucked corn, two bags fresh whole mushrooms, half dozen trimmed whole artichokes, one bag of small red potatoes, three sliced lemons, two sliced oranges, fresh jalapenos and one K-jean spice pack. Next mix in one sack of crawfish. Once the crawfish have been properly boiled, turn off the flame and dump two bags of ice on top of the boil to help the crawfish steep.