Spicy Dan Dan Noodles
For Chef Hao Gong, his restaurant Luvi is a family affair. Named after his daughters, Lulu and Violet, the beautiful space welcomes diners into an exotic wonderland where you can enjoy Gong’s twist on traditional Shanghai cuisine, as well as delicate Japanese-inspired dishes.
Gong moved to the United States from Shanghai when he was 15. After traveling all over the country, honing his trade in the kitchens of California, he eventually settled in New Orleans in 1993. After working in sushi for 20 years, the promise of New Orleans’ fresh seafood drew Gong in.
“New Orleans has some of the freshest seafood in the country,” he said. “Fish, oysters—the city has some of the best to offer.”
After working as the head chef of Sake Café, on Magazine Street for 12 years, Gong decided that he wanted more. He figured that his passion would translate well into his own restaurant, and Luvi opened its doors at 5236 Tchoupitoulas Street in April, 2018.
Luvi’s menu boasts dishes inspired by Gong’s home of Shanghai, as well as a raw bar that offers Gong’s take on modern Japanese cuisine. Dishes include “Oh Sweet Shanghai Baby Back Ribs,” “Bam Bam Chicken” and “Curried Favor Dumplings.”
The star of the show is definitely the raw bar. It’s here that Gong works his magic, slicing and dicing delicate pieces of fish into delicious configurations. He makes small talk with customers as he prepares delicate creations that are as tasty as they are beautiful.
Gong explained, “My specialty is raw fish, and no one else is doing what I’m doing in the city. With some of the raw fish, I add some fruit to balance the flavors. I’ll add a bit of banana to some salmon, in order to add to the creaminess. It’s a combination that people don’t expect to work, but it does.”
Gong is quick to welcome newcomers to his restaurant, especially those who may have been hesitant to try raw fish, in the past.
“People come in who say that they don’t like raw fish, but I’m able to change their minds,” he said.
If you’re feeling especially adventurous (and hungry), you can opt for Luvi’s “Feed Me” option, which Chef Gong will prepare as a five-course meal of all raw foods that are balanced with a selection of Chef’s choice of fruits, vegetables, sauces and oils. This option is sure to leave a lasting impression on any raw fish lover.
Aside from the beautiful food, another thing that will catch your eye is Luvi’s décor. When designing the space, it was important to Gong that he included a lot of color. The bright hues and cheerful patterned wallpaper and chairs are an Instagrammer’s dream, and make the customer feel as if they are dining in a far-off part of the world.
The small restaurant is currently only operating at 50 percent capacity, due to COVID restrictions. Gong said that it was important to keep his customers safe and comfortable in the already small space.
“We want people to feel welcome here,” Gong said. “This is a family restaurant. I’m here all the time and welcome people when they walk in and I tell them goodbye when they leave. It’s important that my customers feel as comfortable as possible here.”
Shanghai spring rolls
It was a cold December evening when I stopped in; the restaurant was bustling as I settled into my table and looked over the menu. I started with an order of the “Shanghai Spring Rolls,” fried pork and cabbage roll in a tasty, crispy wrap. The pork was tender and savory; it made for a perfect start.
Because chef had made a point of mentioning his combination of banana and salmon, I opted next for the “Monkey Snack.” This is salmon wrapped around a sesame-seed crusted banana with a sweet, spicy sauce. Chef was right—this was an interesting combination that worked surprisingly well. The fruit balanced nicely with the fish, and the spicy sauce was a nice touch that brought all the flavors together.
Finally, to warm my bones I opted for the “Spicy Dan Dan Noodles.” This is a large bowl of chicken and black bean and homemade chili sauces and it really hit the spot! The noodles are on the thicker side, so they do a good job of soaking up the yummy broth. Speaking of the broth, it already has a nice kick to it, but I liked that they brought a little extra chili sauce on the side, just in case you want to bring it to the next level. If you get this dish, be sure to stir it all well and let those ingredients really combine for the full flavor experience.
If your tastes lean more toward the vegan side, Luvi’s menu includes “Pan Fried Vegan Lover Dumplings” with bok choy, mushroom and green bean noodles, “Spicy Stir Fried Bean Curd” with jalapeno, red onion and black bean chili, and “Stir Fried Napa Cabbage” with ginger and garlic.
Luvi Restaurant is located at 5236 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans, LA 70115; 504-605-3340. Hours: Tuesday through Thursday, 5 p.m. until 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. until 10 p.m.
