At Donald Link’s latest restaurant Gianna, chef/partner Rebecca Wilcomb pays homage to her roots by honoring her Grandmother Giannina Chieregati’s culinary heritage in Veneto, Italy. A big part of Wilcomb’s approach lies in her passion; not only for the food she prepares but to a more visceral overarching narrative, connecting with the lineage of families, their recipes and stories to the communities that grow the food.
Gianna’s “forager,” Ashley Locklear, is an essential element of the philosophy of connection to the regional farmers and foragers spanning a 250-mile radius. Farmers and foragers are listed on their website, including their background stories. The Good Food Project, Isabelle’s Orange Orchard and Veggi Farmers Cooperative are just a sampling of organic, ethical vendors going above and beyond with a more holistic outlook on food pathways. For chef Wilcomb, those farm-to-table relationships result in optimum freshness, flavor, and seasonal inspiration. Along with that philosophy, Wilcomb’s approach is characterized by dishes derived from deep dives into vintage cookbooks and family recipes that make for the singular, unique dining experience created at Gianna.
A grand-scale restaurant with an open-face kitchen, the atmosphere at Gianna derives from a large expanse of wheat beige tones in a softly lit, welcoming dining room with a large bar as the centerpiece adorned by lavishly hand-crafted floor tiles. The bar is surrounded by a sea of comfortably spaced tables. Outdoor dining is also available. The chill atmosphere is enhanced by a well-curated music mix ranging from the Meters to Milky Chance, and an unobtrusive, understated approach to service.
Dining options begin with antipasti offerings which include panelle—chickpea fritters with Allen Bee Farms honey, marinated olives, tuna stuffed peppers, oysters and artichoke gratin and a delicious eggplant caponata. Hand-crafted pasta selections include rigatoni with pistachio pesto, Calabrian peppers, ricotta; lasagna with beef ragu layered with fontina béchamel; and their signature tortellini in brodo: all speak to the soul of Gianna. Sweet potato gnocchi served with an unctuous pork ragu benefited from addition of spicy strands of arugula. The creamy polenta with lamb sausage gravy was a knockout.
Photo courtesy of Gianna Restaurant
On my most recent visit, the lemon-ricotta ravioli served with roasted tomatoes offered a pleasant contrast of zesty flavors ballasted by savory notes provided by the herb-flecked roasted tomatoes. Likewise, the entree selections are rustic presentations. The perfectly cooked roasted pork shoulder with fennel and orange was a highlight; the braised brown exterior revealed a fork-tender pink interior set over a delicious risotto cake drizzled with pan drippings and really hit the spot. Lightly breaded sweet Gulf shrimp served on skewers with a side of garlic-rosemary dipping sauce was another highlight, and a great example of elevated simplicity. Other enticing options include veal saltimbocca, chicken diavolo for two, oven-roasted daily fish draped in diced chilis and lemon essence, and a roasted bone-in ribeye.
Half-dozen side dishes are available, including the deeply satisfying carrots in agrodolce sauce, and the most delicious focaccia I’ve ever had. A family-style “Feed Me” menu is available with optional wine pairings. The portions at Gianna are designed to offer the perfect amount for those that want to enjoy a variety of dishes either to share or in a multiple course format. Desserts are not to be missed and include specialty items such as the amazing tartufo with amarena cherries, chocolate amaretti cake with hazelnut toffee and espresso whipped cream, and pistachio cheesecake.
The bar features signature drinks made with exotic Italian liqueurs and the wine selections highlight regional varietals from the motherland. Like all of Donald Link’s restaurants, Gianna is a beautifully conceived and perfectly executed concept and a most welcomed addition to New Orleans’ vibrant dining scene.
700 Magazine Street (504) 399-0816, Sunday – Thursday 11 a.m. until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. until 11 p.m. For more information on Gianna Restaurant, click here.
