This column now turns its attention to some of the new arrivals and grand improvements in the New Orleans fine dining scene. Don’t wait for a special occasion; these restaurants also showcase their offerings on more reasonably priced lunch menus or properly apportioned entrees.
Marisol (437 Esplanade Avenue; 943-1912) now anchors Esplanade Avenue, occupying one of the most beautifully warm and inviting dining spaces in the city, formerly occupied by the Bayou Ridge Cafe. After meeting over the internet, owners Peter and Janis Vazquez were married in November 1997 and opened the doors of Marisol in January of this year.
Lately this establishment has attracted a great deal of attention with its innovative approach to fine dining. One finds the overall concept of Marisol’s menu offerings a refreshing arrival in a city that can be trapped in culinary traditions of rich and heavy foods. Chef Peter Vazquez draws upon both his classical culinary training and his own inventive nature to build a completely new and original menu at every meal. One can have confidence that this restaurant serves what it is best at preparing and cooking on a daily basis. One could never eat everything on the menu.
Careful selections of main dish meats are paired with fresh flavors and sauces working together within a consistent theme in each dish. Dense menu descriptions do not exaggerate the complexity of fresh flavors. Most menu items hold an organic, fresh floral feel assembled in a wonderful presentation.
Bountiful salads include the simple Wild Organic Green Salad with Garlic Chapons and Balsamic Vinaigrette ($4.25) or Shiitake-Noodle Salad with Shredded Romaine. Carrots and Hoisin Vinaigrette ($7.50). Whether the dish has distinct Asian flavors found in a Thai Crab and Coconut Soup with Ginger and Basil ($5.50) or a pleasing fresh water Poached King Salmon with French Bean Salad and Tomato Black Olive Court Boullion ($18.95), all dishes succeed in consistency. Who else would be bold enough to serve an entree composed of macaroni and cheese mixed with crabmeat mussels and the nutty flavors of Asiago cheese and cream sauce ($16.95).
Step outside the French Quarter and enjoy the Marisol outdoor patio, menu and wide selection of wines. teas and coffee drinks. Marisol remains open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Friday, dinner on Saturday and brunch and dinner on Sunday. Public parking is available next door.
The new favorite spot for decadent consumption in the French Quarter is Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse (716 Iberville St., 522-CHOP). This swanky dinner club welcomes any appetite that needs immersion in a most luxurious environment. Settle into the street level bar with any number of choice wines or premium liquors served up in beautiful glassware. Hold court in the bar until it is time to descend into the time-warped, elegant dining room. This space is filled with warm art deco lighting. bright tile floor and masculine decor that promises many New Orleans flavors and influences are worked into the menu. The dress is “Upscale casual, jackets not required.”
Dickie Brennan wants his diners to know that, “For the past fifty years we’ve been perfecting the art of beef preparation in our family restaurants … that’s why we GRILL our CHOPS, SEAR our STRIPS, OVEN-ROAST our PRIME RIB and BROIL our FILETS.” Executive Chef James Leeming builds on this approach by adding delicious salads, appetizers and a selection of more than a dozen sides or potato dishes that even eclipse those offered at Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse.
My favorite lunch entree salad includes the Chopped Salad with Louisiana Fried Oysters ($10.75). This generously apportioned dish builds upon a bed of Romaine lettuce with sliced calamatas, diced salad vegetables and feta cheese tossed with a sweet balsamic-cane vinaigrette topped with masa flash-fried Louisiana oysters. One should also try the andouille vinaigrette with any chosen salad.
Dinner favorites include the Blackened Beef Tenderloin appetizer ($6.95), incorporating tender strips of beef cooked medium rare and tossed in a light horseradish sauce on a bed of arugula greens and creole spiced croutons. The Tomato-Bleu Cheese Napoleon ($7.50) is also a hard dinner salad to finish when tackling cumbersome slices of creole tomatoes stacked with layers of crumbled Maytag bleu cheese, red onion shavings, garlic croutons and the house herb and tomato remoulade sauce. The House Filet ($32) can be recognized as more than a simple 8 ounce filet, for this lean cut of beef is served on a bed of creamed spinach and small diced home fries, topped with the masa flash-fried oysters and the traditional bearnaise sauce.
Signature sauces include Housemade Worcestershire, Housemade Steak Sauce, Hollandaise, Bearnaise, Pepper- Cream Bourbon Sauce and Marchands de Vin. Highlights of the house potatoes and sides include: Pontalba Potatoes ($5.25) diced, roasted and sauteed with garlic, sweet caramelized onions, wild mushrooms, scallions and fiery tasso; Roasted Sweet Potato ($4.50) topped with warm creole pecan butter and the staples of Garlic Creamed Mashed Potatoes ($4.25), Au Gratin Potatoes ($4.50) or House Fries ($3.95).
This restaurant guarantees the type of service you expect from a Brennan family restaurant. Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse is open for lunch Monday – Saturday 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m. and open for dinner nightly from 5:30 p.m.–10:00 p.m. The bar remains open daily from 11:30 a.m.–11:00 p.m.
Few restaurants have enjoyed the growth and success that Jacque-Imo’s (8324 Oak Street; 861-0886) has in the last few years. Owner and chef Jacque Leonardi recognized the need for change to meet his customer’s demands and has proceeded to do so, Jacque reconfigured this space to move the bar to me front room and replace the bar area with a dining room just beyond the kitchen bringing the total to four individual dining areas. The most crowded evenings allow dinner guests to spill out around tables on the sidewalk out front met by an expanded wait staff aild hostess. Jacque has also created an even more celebratory atmosphere with a piano player sitting at the piano in the bar on some evenings.
Jacque-Imo’s has always reveled in its fast-paced activity and hyped-up atmosphere and sense of humor created by both his staff and his restaurant full of diners. These improvements have helped to streamline his staff’s kitchen time and table service. As more longtime fans, out-of-towners and Maple Leaf regulars return to compete for tables, this column need only remind the reader once, “The earlier you go, the better chance you have to get a table without an hour or more wait.”
All the regular favorite menu items have remained including the nationally renowned Famous Fried Chicken Plate ($9.95-10.50), Stuffed Pork Chop ($13.95), Stuffed Catfish with Crabmeat ($12.50) or even the Stuffed Soft Shell Crab with a Choron sauce ($16.50). The recent restaurant improvements guarantee that Jacque will not run out of the following daily specials.
For appetizers, try the Steamed Mussels in a white wine tomato broth or a traditional New Orleans Bar-B-Q Shrimp served over rice. Don’t miss out on any numb,r’ of the fresh seafood offerings including Broiled Escolar with a wild mushroom and artichoke ginger sauce topped with shrimp and Grilled Duck Breast in a orange soy glaze with wild sauteed mushrooms and roasted pecans. All dinners include the house salad of mixed greens tossed in a garlic balsamic vinaigrette and topped with a flash fried oyster. Expect generous portions full of flavor in every dish.
Jacque has continued his eclectic original approach to menu ingredients by assembling a Country Fried Venison with a cream and wild mushroom gravy and Buffalo Meatloaf garnished with gouda cheese and a sweet tomato basil sauce. Entree special prices may vary. Desserts to look forward to are the Sweet Potato Pecan Pie or the Red Velvet Cake if there’s ever any left remaining after 8 p.m. at night.
Jacque-Imo’s is open five nights a week from Tuesday through Saturday. Reservations recommended for large parties. Dress code is very casual.
