A successful Jazz Fest culinary experience requires great mental preparation and gastrointestinal endurance. One cannot enjoy the festival blowout activities on an empty stomach, nor should one be resigned to eating average or tasteless fare in New Orleans. This column aims to help one procure the sustenance to survive marathon days of festival fun and nighttime club shows. There are a few new markets and restaurants as well as long-time favorites that deserve special attention this spring dining season.
A lot of attention has been given to the rise of new Asian restaurants in New Orleans. In the last three years, the number of sushi restaurants alone has tripled in our area. Carrollton Avenue has blossomed in the last year into a destination of international food establishments. Just recently I discovered Mikimoto Japanese Restaurant (3301 South Carrollton Ave., 488-1881) housed in the former Chinese Express location in Mid-City. The drive through window remains even though everything here is made to order. Explore their offerings of local seafood with the Millenium Specials ($.99) including cuts of Mackerel, Squid and Salmon. Aspiring Internet mogul and former Isidore Newman football star, Paul McDonald, recently led a successful tour of this menu built on his experience of teaching in Japan. Kick the menu tour off with the Sunomono Salad ($4.50) composed of sliced tuna, salmon and white fish tossed with cucumbers in a spicy vinaigrette marinade. A generous Seaweed Salad ($3.75) rivals that of any other local sushi restaurant.
The knowledgeable staff, under manager Mo “Jackie” Chan’s guidance, will help lead one down the right path of sushi and main course choices. Ask if the mind numbing rolls of Wasabi Tobiko ($5.95) are available. A Sweet Shrimp Roll ($4.90) lays sliced Gulf shrimp across beds of rice with a sticky sweet sauce and caviar garnish. House special rolls include the now famous Mikimoto Roll ($10). Heavy by sushi standards, this weighty roll includes shredded squid, shrimp, octopus, crab stick, asparagus and avocado bound by a creamy sweet sauce. A Chef’s Special Roll ($5.95) packs in thin slices of tuna, salmon, yellowtail and asparagus to be dressed with the house “pink sauce.” The Shrimp Tempura ($4.95) will help cure one’s longing for crustaceans in this disappointing mudbug season. Crunch down on the whole heads of jumbo shrimp with joy. Another new favorite special is the Caviar Brothers Roll made of smelt roe, salmon roe and Wasabi Tobiko.
In addition to the sushi bar, Mikimoto has available a full menu of hot food, daily lunch specials, take-out and catering choices. One may also choose to relive one’s youth with the large selection of Polynesian drinks served in large volcanic ceramic bowls and garnished with umbrellas. Sake and traditional Japanese beer are also available. Mikimoto is open Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Friday 11 a.m.-11 p.m. and Saturday 4-11 p.m.
The Uptown neighborhood has welcomed a few new neighborhood markets to its streets. On one side of the park thrives the New Harvest Market (7457 St. Charles Ave., 314-9400). More than a grocery store, this spot features local Louisiana products, a gourmet deli and a fully functioning kitchen preparing while-you-wait entrées like Foccacia pizzas, delicious original sandwiches, homemade burritos and custom salads. Most notably, one should try the Roasted Turkey Sandwich ($6.95) with sliced fresh avocados and a jalapeño orange glaze on multi-grain bread. One outstanding feature of this location is that it showcases baked goods and pastries from La Spiga Bakery, Angelo Brocato desserts and many favorite restaurant recipe soups. Fans of the now defunct G&E Courtyard Grill can still buy the Oyster Rockefeller Soup ($11) by the quart. This market also has a number of organic, dairy-free and vegetarian items. A full meat counter, prepared cold dishes and wide cheese selection are also available. The wine and beer license should arrive soon to round out a complete meal in one visit. New Harvest Market is open from 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Saturday and 8 a.m.-3 p.m. on Sunday. Do not waste one’s time cooking at home when one can feed a house full of guests in one visit to New Harvest Market.
On the other side of Audubon Park, the Anderson~DaBella Market (7050 Magazine St., 866-3125) has recently opened for business. Drop by the “Where Magazine meets the Levee Uptown” location for various sundries, wine, beer, produce and picnic baskets to go. Weekend crowds flock for Blue Plate Specials ($4.99-7.95), Homemade Soups ($3.99-8.99) by the bowl or quart and Health Food Specialties ($5.49-5.99) sure to please all discriminating or hangover patrons. Weekend brunch items include Omelets ($5.49) and Egg Breakfasts Any Style ($1.99). Immediate favorites include the Boneless Fried Chicken ($5.25) served with a choice of cooked vegetables, delicious baked macaroni or a small plain salad. A Stuffed Bell Pepper ($2.39) filled with garlicky ground beef is the perfect side to a dressed Seafood Po-boy ($5.99-6.95) or the best of both worlds alongside the DaBella Portobella Burger ($5.99). This vegetarian specialty lays a giant grilled mushroom on top of shredded carrots, cheddar cheese and alfalfa sprouts on a multi-grained bun. There’s an accommodating dining room upstairs to chow down in house or sip a cup of coffee and keep an eye on levee action through the large bay windows. Desserts include homemade Bread Pudding ($1.49), St. Francisville Pies ($1.89) featuring pecan, coconut, apple or lemon flavors. Drop by to pick up a menu before the out-of-town crowds hit and call in an advance order for take out or for free delivery. Anderson~DaBella Market is open Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.-7 p.m. and Sunday 10 a.m.-4 p.m.
Over the last year I have learned that a lot of my favorite casual restaurant spots have one of two things in common, either a claw game or a refinery within view of the front door. Rocky & Carlo’s (613 St. Bernard Highway, 279-8323) has four claw games and two refineries within view of its roadside entrance. This is a must visit spot for all humankind just fifteen minutes down river from the French Quarter.
This Chalmette eatery truly defies description. Once one enters the main dining room, it is anything goes. One may want to ask the others in line for their personal recommendations. Survey the daily dishes in the display counter or order off the menu above the kitchen on the wall. Basically all dishes cost $5-$9, not including sides. It may take longer to order than to eat your meal. Get on board the food train with a small Wop Salad to start. Small really means large and large translates to extra extra large by normal standards. Order for oneself, but be prepared to share family style at the table. One fine strategy is to order Veal Parmesan on a bed of french fries and sides of thin battered Onion Rings, a Stuffed Pepper and Macaroni & Cheese. This establishment is long known for its Macaroni & Cheese that is made of any pasta available, Velveeta, butter and a thick layer of cheddar cheese on top. Po-boys measure out at more than twelve inches overflowing with fried shrimp or oysters. Whether it be the Bruccoloni, Baked Chicken or Roast Beef Po-Boy, one will not be disappointed. One may come to New Orleans to eat, but it will be apparent that this restaurant is filled with locals from St. Bernard Parish. Rocky & Carlo’s is open seven days a week from sunrise to midnight.
