In Chapter 47 of the Bywater’s Post-K metamorphosis, a veteran of the venerable Mission Chinese Food serves his own Creolized interpretations of inauthentic Southeast Asian cuisine on St. Claude Avenue. Before he worked alongside Danny Bowien at the New York outpost of Mission Chinese, Tobias Womack was a loyal patron of the tongue-tingling dishes that Bowien served in his original pop-up in the Mission District of San Francisco. Years later, a chance meeting with Bowien led to his six months...