Founded in 1856, Tujague’s stands as a testament to resilience, having weathered hurricanes, wars, fire, pandemics and two relocations. As the third-oldest restaurant in the United States and the second oldest in New Orleans, Tujague’s has maintained its status as one of the city’s top fine dining establishments. Now, a new chapter is set to be written as a fresh culinary voice, Chef Meg Gray, steps in to add her mark to Tujague’s storied history.

Executive Chef Meg Gray. Photo courtesy of Tujague’s.

Tujague’s was founded by Guillaume and Marie Abadie Tujague, a couple who emigrated to New Orleans from Bordeaux, France, in 1852. Guillaume was working as a butcher in the French Market when he opened his restaurant at 811 Decatur Street. When Guillaume died in 1912, his sister, Alice Tujague Anouilh, and her husband, Etienne Anouilh, took over daily operations at the restaurant. In 1914, Tujague’s moved to 823 Decatur Street, where it built a reputation that carried it into the 21st century. When Etienne died, the restaurant was sold to business partners Philip Guichet, Sr. and Jean-Dominic (John) Castet. Castet’s wife ran the kitchen preparing French-Creole fare while John and Philip tended to the patrons at the restaurant’s bar. The trio is responsible for Tujague’s famed spicy shrimp remoulade, boiled beef brisket, and chicken bonne femme, an off-menu special order. Upon the Castet’s death, Guichet’s sons, Philip Jr. and Otis, took over restaurant operations and, in 1982 the pair sold Tujague’s to Steven and Stanford Latter, who added blackened fish and jambalaya to the menu. Steven’s son Mark and his wife Candace took ownership of Tujague’s when Steven died in 2013.

Tujague’s Gulf Fish. Photo courtesy of Tujague’s.

Over the years, it’s not only been the food that’s drawn people into Tujague’s, but cocktails. Most notably, the Grasshopper was invented here. This combination of crème de menthe, crème de cacao, brandy, whole milk  and heavy cream is closer to a dessert than a cocktail, but diners have been enjoying the drink here since Philip Guichet invented it around 1918 at a cocktail contest. Another famous cocktail, Whiskey Punch, was invented here in 1956 when Guichet traveled to New York City to compete in another cocktail competition. The mix of whiskey, cream, orange flower water, sugar, an egg and ice, topped with a bit of nutmeg and served in a stemmed glass, became an instant hit. Not only did Guichet’s Whiskey Punch win the cocktail competition, but the concoction became another reason for locals and visitors to visit Tujague’s famed standup bar.

In 2020, Tujague’s made a historic move to 429 Decatur Street, which made longtime fans of the restaurant anxious. However, Mark Latter explained to The Advocate that he considered the restaurant’s relocation to be an economic necessity due to rent increases at the old space. The new location, double the size of the previous one, offers a more spacious and comfortable dining experience with multiple dining rooms, while preserving the intimate and historic atmosphere that Tujague’s is known for.

Tujague’s Shrimp and Grits. Photo courtesy of Tujague’s.

The next chapter of Tujague’s is going to be an exciting one. The restaurant just appointed Meg Gray as Executive Chef. She will replace chef Gus Martin, who is retiring.

Gray was raised in the Midwest and has been cooking professionally for 16 years. Gray says she developed an interest in cooking by watching her grandmother, who made people happy with the food she made.

“I knew that I had the passion for cooking, and I wanted to go for it,” she says. “When I got an acceptance letter to Oklahoma State University Institute of Technology [which has a culinary arts program], I fell more in love with it and decided it was time for me to see what I could do with cooking.”

While in college, Gray began cooking at a Southern Hills Country Club in Tulsa under Certified Master Chef Jonathan Moosmiller, who helped her master her techniques. Under his guidance, Gray moved to Las Vegas, where she worked at Chef Gordon Ramsay’s renowned restaurant, Hell’s Kitchen. After spending some time cooking in Orlando, Gray relocated to New Orleans and began her tenure at Tujague’s as sous chef under the guidance of Chef Gus Martin.

Photo courtesy of Tujague’s.

Gray plans to add her own touch to Tujague’s menu, elevating the cuisine while respecting the history of one of the country’s oldest restaurants.

Gray explains, “We’re going to see some fanciful plating and focus on presentation without sacrificing taste. I believe that you eat with your eyes first and if a plate looks delicious, you go into the meal knowing that it will taste delicious as well.”

While Gray is adding her own dishes to the menu, some classics will remain. Old favorites like New Orleans Barbecue Shrimp, Gulf Fish, and Shrimp and Grits can still be enjoyed. Gray is adding her own special touches with menu highlights like Frenched Chicken Breast, with Swiss chard, carrot, mushrooms, chickpea, and peppadew pepper coulis; Gulf Fish, with broccolini, beurre blanc, and basil tomato concasse; and Duck Breast, with sweet potato dauphinoise, Swiss chard, and port wine sauce.

Famed for its Saturday and Sunday brunch, Gray’s menu includes Eggs Guichet, with andouille hash, red bean puree, egg and crispy tasso ham; Tujague’s Brisket Bowl, with tender brisket, peppers, onion, tomatoes, and garlic tossed with fried new potatoes, topped with fried eggs; and Tujague’s Chicken Biscuit, with fried chicken thighs glazed with Crystal honey sauce, served on a buttermilk biscuit with country gravy. Brunch also includes bottomless mimosas for $22 per guest.

Tujague’s Restaurant, 429 Decatur Street. 504-525-8676. Open Monday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., Friday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.