Seaworthy, the seafood restaurant and oyster bar in the Ace Hotel, 630 Carondelet Street, opened in 2016 and quickly made a name for itself for its upscale atmosphere and oyster selection. Now, the restaurant is undergoing a renaissance with a new executive chef and exciting plans on the horizon.

Seaworthy’s new executive chef James Whitehead was previously the executive chef at Ace Hotel New Orleans’ sister hotel, Maison de la Luz. Before that, he was sous chef at the critically acclaimed seafood restaurant, the John Dory Oyster Bar, at Ace Hotel New York, working alongside the legendary chef April Bloomfield.

Seaworthy caviar platter, photo by Randy Schmidt

At Seaworthy, the team aims to showcase sustainable seafood and support oyster farmers and fishermen. This relationship includes oyster farmers across the Gulf, from Florida to Texas. The restaurant makes it a point to serve wild oysters that have been harvested sustainably.

Susan Buckley, Vice President of Food and Beverage Atelier Ace, explained “Back in 2016, sustainable aquaculture practices such as off-bottom oyster farming—where oysters are grown suspended in water above the seafloor—were fairly nascent in the Gulf. It’s been a common practice on the Pacific and Atlantic coasts for quite some time. It takes significantly more time and resources to cultivate oysters this way, but it’s better long term for the environment and the industry. The result is a more consistent and uniquely flavored product since these oysters are highly managed. Some people even call these ‘boutique oysters’ because of the way they’re cultivated.”

Here you can sample various types of oysters from different parts of the country and, since the restaurant opened, it has committed to oyster farmers to buy directly from them.

“In 2016, there weren’t many places in New Orleans where you could sample oysters from the Atlantic and Pacific coasts,” Buckley said. “Since day one, we’ve also sourced oysters from New England, Canada, Virginia, Washington, Baja Mexico, etc. At Seaworthy, we like to say that we celebrate all three North American coasts. This means guests get to sample a wide variety of oysters, oftentimes trying an oyster they’ve never even heard of before, and they also get to support these hard-working oyster farmers. Most of these oyster farms are small, independent businesses, and many are multi-generational family owned.”

photo by Randy Schmidt

Chef Whitehead added, “With oysters, we use the term ‘merroir,’ a reference to the French word, ‘mer,’ for the sea. Oysters are filter feeders, so they’re literally taking in their environment all the time, and this affects their flavor. If the water in which the oyster lives is high in salinity, you’re going to taste that brininess. If it’s growing amongst sea grasses, you’re going to get vegetal notes, sometimes even fruity notes. Cold water oysters vary in flavor from warmer water ones. Some oysters are firm and meaty, and others can be soft and creamy. Certain farmers cultivate flat oysters, and others raise deep-cup oysters. At Seaworthy, we have them all. I recommend you order a few different ones from different locales and just explore the possibilities.”

In the spirit of balancing the relationship of give and take, Seaworthy is a longtime contributor to the Coalition to Restore Coastal Louisiana Oyster Shell Recycling Program. As a result, spent oyster shells stay out of landfills and help restore reefs that protect the Louisiana shoreline.

The menu here is exquisite, with fresh oysters giving way to lobster, shrimp, crab, scallops, and snapper. Naturally, inspiration for the menu comes from the sea, with most of the seafood coming directly from the Gulf’s waters. Chef Whitehead prepares each dish to make the most of every ingredient and maximize flavor.

“That means slicing a fish and serving it raw as crudo or ceviche,” he explained. “Maybe we keep it whole instead and fry it, or maybe we smoke it and make it into a dip.”

One of Seaworthy’s specialties is caviar, with the menu boasting bowfin caviar from Assumption Parish, paddlefish caviar from Louisiana and Sarasota Bay, Florida, and white sturgeon from Snake River, Idaho. Chef Whitehead explained that Seaworthy sustainably harvests its caviar.

He said, “We love caviar. It’s delicious; however, it’s historically been expensive and environmentally unsound. For example, Caspian Sea and Black Sea sturgeon, long considered to be the best caviar producers, have been pushed to near extinction by overfishing. At Seaworthy, we serve bowfin and paddlefish caviar that’s harvested sustainably right here in Louisiana. It’s a local product that’s delicious, and a bit indulgent for sure, but certainly more affordable. So, you can enjoy caviar without putting a heavy dent in your wallet or conscience.”

Seaworthy burger, photo by Randy Schmidt

Other menu highlights include the Seaworthy Roll with crawfish tails, celery mayo, and fries. Shrimp and grits and a whole Maine lobster with crispy noodles for two. For meat lovers, the menu includes an eight-ounce burger with fontina, pancetta crisp, roasted tomato jam and remoulade. Also available is a bone in New York steak. The steak is served with seasonal mushrooms, black garlic butter, and charred cipollini onions and serves up to two.

Seaworthy boasts a bar program focusing on lower ABV session cocktails (lower in alcohol) that allow guests to explore the cocktail menu without getting too tipsy. Many ingredients are made in-house with fresh-pressed juices, syrups, mixers, and only the best spirits. Session cocktails include Goldfinch, made with Cocchi Americano, Fino sherry, lemon, orange bitters, and club soda; Outer Banks, made with Angostura bitters, house-made ginger beer, sweet vermouth, Averna, and lime; and Sherman’s Cup, made with rosé, crushed blackberry and orange, lemon, and lime. In addition, the bar menu includes an array of other cocktails, beer, and wine.

Zero-proof refreshers include Curious Elixirs No. 1, a refreshing version of the classic Negroni with rhodiola (a medicinal plant) and pomegranate; and Lyre’s Amalfi Spritz a spicy non-alcoholic take on a traditional dark ’n’ stormy (cocktail made with dark rum and ginger beer).

During his tenure at Seaworthy, Chef Whitehead plans to keep the menu here rooted in New Orleans and the American South but wants to add his own flair with the help of executive sous chef Giovani Zephir.

“Giovani Zephir and I are so proud of the great team we have at Seaworthy; they’re so talented and hard-working,” he said. “We plan to bring in some of our personal experiences. [We’re going to add] some international flavors and perhaps even some cherished family recipes to the menu.”

Seaworthy, 630 Carondelet Street, 504-930-3071. Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 4 p.m. to 12 a.m.