At the open kitchen counter at Palm&Pine, sauté pans and sizzle plates sway to a rhythmic flow as chefs Amarys and Jordan Herdon reveal their story through touch and taste—where clams get a kiss of crispy chicken skins while fire-flashed chanterelles rub up against crunchy corn, jalapeño peppers, mole Amarillo, and maw maw’s backyard figs.

The advent of Palm&Pine is part and parcel of the rough and tumble DYI tr...