For most New Orleanians, the dishes at their favorite “Italian” restaurant bear little resemblance to the indigenous cuisine of Italy. While delicious in doses, Creole-Italian—with its dominant smooth-and-sweet red gravy and various meats stuffed with garlicky bread crumbs—lacks the finesse and simplicity of true Italian cooking. Recently, though, restaurants focusing on regional Italian specialties have blossomed throughout the city, and one of the best examples of this genre is Mariza.

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