At Luke, chef John Besh has built himself a clubhouse. It’s a place to kick back and eat well without the fussiness of fine dining. The space in the corner of the new Hilton hotel, which used to be Cobalt before the storm, feels like a cross between a French brasserie and a manly private club. Under a pressed-tin ceiling, old-fashioned belt-driven fans lazily spin. A bronze bull watches diners from above the bar. And hanging ...