Café Freret makes an imposing muffuletta. The massive round loaf, studded with sesame seeds and dusted with Parmesan cheese, sits on the plate like a land mass. It's split down the middle to reveal layers of cold cuts and cheese—ham, salami, mortadella and provolone—alternating between three strata of olive salad.

Before I take a bite, I'm hit with the pungent smell of olives and vinegar. And with the first taste, I realize that Café Freret has struck a near perfect balance of meat, bread ...