The renovated Hyatt Regency Hotel on Loyola boasts a sleek design and high-tech features not often embraced by a city that seems to relish in its antiquity. Such a modernist approach seems divergent from a restaurant that pays homage to the local Isleños community, Spanish descendants who emigrated from the Canary Islands to the waterlogged areas of St. Bernard Parish. But at Borgne, chefs John Besh and Brian Landry have successfully elevated simple, flavorful...