When the heat rolls in during the summertime, most local diners head North or West to fill their stomachs and explore new culinary horizons for a few months. For those of us that remain here in the heat, it is time to visit new venues and take advantage of the cool environs of recently established fine dining spots or delve into an international food focus.
Eleven79 (Corner of Erato and Annunciation) has successfully stripped away all the remaining funk of years of dive bar behavior and emerged in the very same spot as one fine Italian establishment. Take note of the building’s original Spanish-style exposed brick behind the bar. With Chef DiPiazza in the kitchen and Mr. Joe manning the front door, a warm welcome greets every diner. Be sure to arrive first, check on your reservation and saddle up to the bar to chat with the always colorful and lively late afternoon crowd. Rest assured you will be well taken care of at every turn in this establishment.
It will be hard to resist going ahead and ordering some of the decadent appetizers on this menu before being seated. Grilled Calamari ($6) stands apart as simple tender pieces of smoky squid laid between fried cuts of polenta and dashed with a bit of succulent butter and cream sauce with fresh green onions to garnish. Oysters Panne ($7) with a white remoulade sauce was another delicious treat that you will not want to share with the rest of the table.
There were far too many pasta dishes to choose from so I appealed to Mr. Joe to show me the way. Our table of diners shared the Carbonara ($15), a bountiful bowl of cooked bacon, peas, pine nuts and a rich cream sauce. I noticed many of the local diners asking who made the delicious Italian bread that is baked daily in the Ninth Ward.
Veal Saltimbocca ($19) remains a fond memory of tender cuts of veal draped with prosciutto in a sage and Marsala wine sauce. The market price daily Fish Selection is best prepared sauteed in lemon and butter and topped with crabmeat. Be sure to sample the Vegetable Sides ($4-5) and homemade Desserts ($4-5.50). Word of mouth will guarantee that this restaurant succeeds and rewards those diners that found it first.
Restaurant Cuvee (322 Magazine Street, 587-9001) rises to the top with some of the most knowledgeable management and kitchen expertise this city has groomed for the last six years. From the warm smiles of Manager Keith McManus to the fiery personality of Executive Chef Richard “Bingo” Starr there lies great satisfaction in any dining experience. Many have sworn over the years, “Wherever Chef Bingo goes, I go.” This location, part of the St. James Hotel, seeks to blend a contemporary approach to long-standing New Orleans food traditions adding a passionate kick to each dish. Serving three full meals a day, you should hold out for dinnertime to experience all there is to offer. If you cannot decide on where to start, simply close the menu and order the Chef’s Degustation sample selections. Do not let a precocious waiter intimidate the fact this experience is about getting down to business for hardcore fine dining.
Fine preludes include the Mirliton Napoleon ($8) of lightly fried mirliton slices, spicy boiled Gulf shrimp, a Creole mustard white remoulade sauce and cayenne butter. The Smoked Lamb-Chevre Tortilla ($6.75) is served dressed in a spicy tomato concasse with mole on a bed of tender pinto beans. Former Opelousas Yam Queen Beth James holds this dish in high regard. One of the most popular appetizers remains the paper thin-sliced Beef Carpaccio ($7) served alongside a sweet potato corn salad and horseradish sauce. Of the three salads to choose from, first select the Baby Spinach Salad ($8) tossed with pickled onions, candied oranges and thick slices of prosciutto bacon and a complex flavored champagne-basil vinaigrette. Second choice remains the Portobella Confit Salad ($8) of meaty royal mushrooms, Roquefort cheese, oven-cured tomatoes, arugula and frisee dressed in a bittersweet balsamic vinaigrette.
Tantalizing entrees begin with the tempura Crispy Chive Battered Salmon ($18). Three large cuts of flavorful salmon are decorated with a crawfish-vegetable slaw and a sprightly dill-chantilly sauce. One diner exclaimed at how refreshing a mix this delicate sauce worked with such a strong flavored fish. A hearty hunger may be conquered by the Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb ($29). Giant cuts of lamb chops, best served rare, are buoyed by a bed of smothered lentils, dashes of fresh pureed tapenade and a roasted tomato lamb jus. The smoky flavors of each individually sliced chop rise among the perfectly apportioned bed of vegetables and a sauce that soaks just the right flavors into the meat.
The Twin Crème Brulees ($8) dessert proves this pastry chef understands the importance of subtle flavors and a crisp sugar glaze in this time-honored dessert. An adventurous wine list is balanced with excellent choices of wine by the glass. Breakfast is served from 7-9:30 a.m. Monday-Saturday. Lunch is served from 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. weekdays. Dinner is served from 6-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday and until 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Cuvee proves to New Orleanians why people have driven across the lake for years to visit the owners’ first establishment Dakota.
Lebanon’s Café (1506 South Carrollton, 862-6200) has anchored itself among the quickly growing international food restaurants in the River Bend neighborhood. Choose from more than 50 items on this bountiful menu. Here, Middle Eastern food rules the roost! Make room on the table for the Chef’s Special ($9.99) including Hummus, Baba Ganuj, Grape Leaves, Tabouleh, Falafel and Labna yogurt mixed with mint and olive oil. Take note that all dishes come firing out of the kitchen at a rapid pace so be ready to consume. A few of the more unusual first course items include Fried Kibby ($1.95) loaves and Cabbage Rolls ($3.25). These rolls can be stuffed with meat or purely vegetarian items including tomato, onion, parsley, green beans and seasoned with seven secret spices and black pepper.
The Arabic Salad ($3.25) tosses diced tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley and fresh lettuce with a lemon juice and olive oil dressing. You may also find the Yogurt Salad with Cucumber ($2.75), quite refreshing before moving on to entrees. If one chooses to go the route from the sandwich board try garlicky Eggplant ($4.25), Falafel ($3.25) or a choice of Kabobs ($3.50-3.75).
Dinner selections are composed of larger portions and combinations of the aforementioned appetizers, sandwiches and salads. Vegetarians will secure pure afternoon delight from more than five choices. A most substantial entrée, the Sauteed Vegetable Plate ($8.99) pulls together eggplant, white onions, tomatoes, squash, broccoli, all types of peppers cooked together with warm feta cheese and served over a bed of brown rice. The Lula Kabob ($7.99) presents a large portion of grilled ground lamb marinated in wafting scents of garlic, parsley and more secret spices.
All items are available in catering portions for a party of any size. Choose from more than four tea selections and the jolting Turkish Coffee ($1.25). Lebanon’s Café is open from 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday and 12-9 p.m. on Sundays.
