The lunch crowd that arrived at Liuzza’s By the Track were turned away by Susan Cowsill. In sunglasses and brown corduroy overalls, she told the laborers and businessmen sneaking to Mid-City for an hour, “It’s closed.” Sitting on the stoop, Vicki Peterson added, “The kitchen’s being remodeled. We’re the disappointment committee.” When someone in a suit asked if the six of us waiting for guitarist Robert Maché to arrive were all Continental Drifters, Cowsill assu...