In the beginning there was an ex-cop, and his name was Arthur Jacobs. And Jacobs opened a hamburger joint at the corner of Bourbon and Dumaine, and he called it Clover Grill.

And he covered the burgers when he fried them, so they were good.

Then came Mardi Gras day in the year 1964, and Jacobs saw the multitudes of hamburger-eaters who gathered on Canal Street, and he watched them stroll up Bourbon to St. Peter and then...he saw them turn around.

And he was not pleased.

And so it ...