The Cajun country super food that once required a trip westward along the I-10 is making inroads in New Orleans.

When the elderly Nook and Mother Bonin closed up shop in New Iberia many years ago, it was a sad day. Their meat market made what I then considered to be the best boudin in Louisiana—a rice, pork and liver miracle with an inexplicably funky, don’t-ask-don’t-tell taste. I knew Bonin’s was the best because I’d scientifically pr...