I started getting a bit overwhelmed just contemplating all the choices on the musical menu surrounding the Jazz Fest, beyond the gluttonous feast offered at the Fair Grounds. Because of the nature of this column, I was only looking at jazz around the city, not even taking into consideration such acts as bluesman Charles Brown on the Thursday before the Fest at Tipitina’s (sorry, I had to slip that one in). All of this makes me thankful to be living here, because if I miss, say, the Rebirth Brass Band at Trombone Shorty’s on Wednesday, April 28, I can catch them some other time.
So how to approach this smorgasbord? Rather than trying to select where to go each night, I thought a general guide to the places to be sure to visit and the acts not to miss (many are playing a number of venues, including official Jazz Fest functions at the Fair Grounds and/or at the evening concerts) might be more useful.
Personally, I like things pretty easy and prefer to take big gulps of music rather than little sips here and there, so running Uptown, Downtown and back Uptown is not quite my style and is reflected here. But hey, go for it if you like.
For reasons too complex to go into here, there are actually fewer jazz clubs in New Orleans than most visitors would anticipate. Narrow that down to contemporary jazz and the number dwindles dramatically. But the local clubs are packing their schedules, the small neighborhood spots are really helping to fill the gaps and non-nightclub venues are providing jobs for players and accessible music for all (bring the kids).
Okay, deep breath…Snug Harbor remains the premier club for contemporary jazz, though it also mixes blues and R&B in its schedule. This Faubourg Marigny (just below the French Quarter) club is the place to catch New Orleans’ first family of jazz (among other fine acts). Pianist Ellis Marsalis is there on Friday, April 23 and Saturday, May 1. Delfeayo Marsalis (Ellis’ son) plays trombone and fronts a band that includes brother Jason on drums and Victor “Red” Atkins (piano) and Neal Caine (bass, plus sax and trumpet) on April 24.
Something I often do after a Friday night at Snug—the sets start at 9 and 11 p.m., which means getting out around 12:30 a.m. at the latest—is to stop at Cafe Istanbul about a block away on Frenchmen Street. Cuban-born eighty-something Ruben “Mr. Salsa” Gonzalez fronts the Pedro Cruz Band until the wee hours. Salsa and merengue reign at this loose spot, with a mixed kinda crowd that loves to dance.
Before hitting Frenchmen Street, traditional jazz starts early (at 8 p.m. most nights) at the Palm Court Cafe—”Do the Palm Court Strut, swing your butt…” —just about four blocks away on Decatur Street. It’s home to veteran leader/clarinetist/saxophonist Pud Brown’s Palm Court Jazz Band, which includes bassist Peter “Chuck” Badie (R&B fans might recognize this name from time spent with Roy Brown, Paul Gayten and Dave Bartholomew), trombonist Lucien Barbarin (nephew to the legendary drummer Paul Barbarin and cousin to the great Danny Barker, performing here April 26), and the versatile drummer Ernie Elly. Pianist Ed Frank is also heard, with Butch Thompson coming in much of the week. On Sunday, it’s trumpeter Gregg Stafford in with Richard Payne on bass. There’s a string of special shows for Jazz Fest, with added late night sessions (beginning at 11 p.m.) and several paid events (most regular performances are free with dinner or while seated at the bar).
Some of my favorite year-round gigs have been at the small clubs in the neighborhoods, including Treme, which is another area adjacent to the French Quarter. It’s not necessarily a good idea to walk in Treme at night, but take a cab or park nearby and all’s cool. A late-night spot on Saturdays, Joe’s Cozy Corner heats up at the stroke of midnight with the Smokey Johnson Quartet. Ahh, Smokey on drums is just as his name implies—smoky, fiery, hot. He and his partner, saxophonist Fred Kemp, might be recognized from their tenures with Fats Domino’s band. And they’re usually teamed with either Ed Frank or David Torkanowsky on piano with Erving Charles on bass.
Also another fave in Treme is Trombone Shorty’s on St. Philip and North Robertson. Brass bands often reign at Shorty’s, the namesake of which is the young leader of the Trombone Shorty All Star Brass Band. On Saturday night at 9 p.m., the Soul Rebels Brass Band moves off the street and onto the small stage. Watch out for this group of young men—they are on the rise. They get tradition from their alter ego, as they began and still perform as the Young Olympian Brass Band. But when it’s time to get funky, it’s time for the Rebels. Sunday evenings always attract a crowd to Shorty’s with the neighborhood’s own Treme Brass Band opening at 7 p.m., followed by Walter “Wolfman” Washington at 9 p.m.
Speaking of brass bands, every Wednesday at the Louisiana Music Factory, a hip Decatur Street record store, is Brass Band Day and every Thursday is Traditional Jazz Day. On April 28, it’s the “Trombone Shorty/Treme Music Blowout” with the Rebirth, Dirty Dozen (also Uptown at Muddy Waters, April 23), Chosen Few, Treme, Tuba Fats, and Trombone Shorty’s All Star brass bands from noon until 6 p.m. No way this ain’t gonna be hot.
Tower Records is also having in-house music and there are two on the jazz ticket. On April 28, the local AFO (All For One) label will present Harold Battiste, Victor Goines, Tami Lynn, Phillip Manuel and more at 2 p.m. On Monday, May 3 (the “day after”), the Dirty Dozen (noon) and trumpeter/vocalist Kermit Ruffins (4 p.m.) both celebrate record releases.
A bit off the beaten track is another small club, the Winnah’s Circle at 2169 Aubry at St. Bernard and Miro. Tuesday night at 9 p.m. and at midnight on Saturday is trumpeter Richwell lson and saxophonist Kirk Ford leading his Experience. Guitarist Carl LeBlanc, who might be recognized from his time with Sun Ra, takes over on Sundays at 7:30 p.m.
Moving Uptown, a very nice gig happens every Thursday at the lovely Columns hotel on St. Charles Avenue (remember it from the movie Pretty Baby?). Saxophonist Tony Dagradi leads a trio with bassist James Singleton and drummer John Vidacovich from 8 p.m. to midnight. Because it’s Jazz Fest, the gig will expand to its rightful number on April 29 by adding David Torkanowsky on piano and Steve Masakowski on guitar to become one of this city’s best ensembles, Astral Project. They are telepathic by this time, a freedom which allows the music to soar. Miss them here and you can still catch them at Snug Harbor on May 2.
On the funkier side is Kemp’s (as in Fred Kemp, mentioned earlier). Thursday nights it’s Rebirth at 10 p.m. and on Sundays the Leo Williams Trio featuring Swanson takes over the small club at 7 p.m.
It seems to me if you hit the Fair Grounds by day, make it to some of the festival’s evening shows, plus stop into Snug, the Palm Court, Shorty’s, Joe’s, the Columns, the Music Factory, Cafe Istanbul, Kemp’s and the Winnah’s Circle, you’ll have much of the jazz scene covered. Ah, huh…