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Dining Out: Café Minh

By Rene Louapre and Peter Thriffiley

New Orleans cuisine has repeated instances of ethnic populations using traditional techniques and local ingredients to produce fantastic results. One of our favorite spots to see this marriage of cuisines and cultures is Café Minh. Cafe Minh melds the New Orleans palate to the techniques, flavors, and ingredients of Vietnam.


When beginning your meal, order one more appetizer than the number of diners at the table. Summer rolls, their translucent wrapper hiding perfectly cooked shrimp, explode with freshness. On a recent visit, an appetizer of fried onion rings and calamari sounded enticing enough to try, and were good enough to keep. But the best starter on the menu may be the Café Minh Roll, which is stuffed with barbecued pork terrine, fresh veggies, and served with a citrus dipping sauce.


During lunch time, the kitchen focuses on satisfying that desire for a sandwich. Nine inch baguettes are sliced open, lathered with a spicy mayonnaise, layered with delicious fillings, and topped with fresh batons of crisp veggies. The char-grilled pork is succulent and smoky, while the lemon grass beef’s sweetness contrasts well with the heat of the homemade mayo.


As for dinner, a wonderful shrimp curry, brilliantly lacquered duck, and the enormous Asian beef short ribs make delicious entrée choices. Fried catfish swims in Vietnamese barbecue sauce for an Eastern take on the Southern classic.


The daily specials have never ceased to disappoint. Thin slices of seared flank steak, served over mixed greens and haricots verts, and then drizzled with sesame peanut vinaigrette created a spectacular salad as a main course. Traditional Pad Thai got a twist by being served cold with poached chicken and shrimp over flat noodles. A small selection of cuisine-appropriate wines, beers, and a full bar coax the meal to an event.


If you are a fan of Vietnamese cuisine, you may find the offerings at Café Minh less challenging than you would prefer. However, we are certain that you have a friend who is hesitant about trying Vietnamese food, and a meal at Café Minh would serve as an excellent introduction for someone in need of training wheels. Café Minh, regardless of the food coming out the kitchen, is a New Orleans restaurant. 4139 Canal St., 482-6266; Tue—Thurs 11:30 a.m.-9p.m. Fri-Sat 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m



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